We found out about the horrific terrorist attacks on the U.S whilst buying supper in a Turkish store. Looking up from the onion rack I caught a glimpse of the television. As we stood mesmerised by the images of New York's smoking Twin Towers, the locals seemed more interested in the shocked expressions on our faces. Driving onwards towards the Syrian border and the Middle East, Helen's mobile rang. It was her mother. " Please don't go to the Middle East," she said. "Terrorists have crashed planes into the Twin Towers and the Pentagon. The U.S will retaliate."

We stopped off at a nearby hotel and persuaded them to tune in to BBC World. It was only then that the full extent of what had happened dawned upon us. Who had done this and what would be the consequences for us? The world assumed that conflict would break out in the Middle East. We spent four days waiting on the shores of a nearby beach from where we could make daily trips to the hotel and check on developments. The fear was not so much of being caught up in direct conflict but of a general anti western feeling emerging throughout the Muslim world. We eventually agreed that an immediate response would be unlikely and that it would be wise to get some serious mileage done before things flared up. Apart from being constantly asked, "Are you American?" we felt no major effects as we passed quietly through Syria and Jordan. We stopped very little as we crossed impressive mountain passes and headed through the stunning desert scenery. The landies held up well to this demanding terrain and, aside from a cracked wing mirror, had no problems. We thoroughly enjoyed our brief stay in these countries and I'm sure none of us will forget the sensation of floating effortlessly on the Dead Sea whilst reading old issues of Time magazine.

Floating on the Dead Sea at sunset

Damascus Mosque

Visiting the oldest Mosque in Damascus where St John the Baptists head is buried

Our first glimpse of the African continent from the ferry from Jordan to Egypt

The ferry from Aquaba was the slowest any of us have experienced but, after eight hours of trying in vain to sleep on the crowded deck, we caught our first glimpse of the African continent, a very welcome sight. After a complex 'paper chase' that detained us at the port of Nuweiba in Sinai for another eight hours, we were finally fitted with Arabic number plates and free to drive south to Dahab from where we spent a much deserved three day break enjoying its perfect beaches and stunning coral reefs. A long and dusty drive took us across the Sinai Peninsula, past Mt Sinai (where Moses is said to have received the ten commandments) and over the Suez Canal to Cairo, the largest and busiest city on the African continent.

Jon in Dahab updating the website from the laptop

We are based just off 'Pyramid Street', in 'Down Town' Cairo towards Sakara. Our campsite is in a very run down neighbourhood where dead donkeys can be seen on the sides of roads and the children play in the canal which doubles up as the local rubbish dump. We have an incredible view of the Pyramids of Giza though, the only remaining of the seven wonders of the ancient world, and have a band of happy children who are keen to be taught how to throw a Frisbee and kick a rugby ball.

Although it now seems that direct conflict will be concentrated, at least to begin with, in Afghanistan, we are certainly feeling the effects of those dreadful terror attacks. We have been in Cairo for ten days now and our ability to acquire Sudanese visas is looking uncertain. It seems that they have a general dislike for westerners and make no effort to explain the situation or help in any way. After three consecutive days of visiting the Embassy only to be told 'please come back tomorrow' and having the door shut in our faces, however, we have had a slight break through. We obtained letters of recommendation from the British Embassy, which helped, and we have got a Rotary Club contact in Khartoum, President Ismat Mahamied, to contact them and argue our case. We now have two Sudanese Oil companies and a travel company vouching for us and trying to push our application through as smoothly as possible. It seems that because we are on 'official business', half the governmental departments in both Sudan and Egypt have become involved. At this stage we really do not know how things will transpire. If we are finally presented with the necessary visas we plan to take a military convoy south through 'Upper Egypt' to Aswan from where we can catch a ferry down the length of Lake Nasser to Wadi Halfa, the only entry point to Sudan currently open. If the worst should happen and we are denied entry then we plan to take a ship from Alexandria, down the Red Sea to Mombassa in Kenya; an expensive option and one which would miss out a large section of the journey. We're keeping our fingers crossed and our fate will be decided soon enough.

Taken in the Sinai desert on the way to Cairo

We are by no means wasting our time. Helen is using this opportunity to go through the film footage she has so far collected and make notes. In addition to the daily phone calls and visits to the embassy, we are busying ourselves maintaining the Land Rovers, writing articles for the various magazines that are following our progress, and entertaining the local children; good training for the project work to come. We are in contact with the three projects in Kenya, Uganda and South Africa who are all looking forward to our arrival. The 'Baby Haven' at Project Gateway is now up and running and have been giving warnings of the hard work that will face us. The competition running in Land Rover Monthly (LRM) to decide names for our vehicles has had a huge response. Each reader has to pay £1.00 to enter and all proceeds go to Demelza House. Amy Parrot from Margate is raising money for us by carrying out a sponsored swim. This is an especially noble gesture as she is afraid of water and must first learn to swim. She has currently raised £700 and expects this figure to increase as the event draws near.

The Land Rovers coming up a steep valley in Jordan

Despite our frustrating wait we are still in good spirits. Helen's mother has been staying in Cairo's Sheraton and has been treating us to some lovely meals, drinks and swims. It has been a pleasure to have a chance to clean up and enjoy some creature comforts. We have enjoyed visiting Cairo's impressive museum, wandering round the old bazaars and enjoying a beer or two in the evenings as the sun sets behind the pyramids. Charlie has replaced the guitar he lost in Turkey and Rory has finally managed to buy a rugby ball. Rachel has got hold of the entire Harry Potter collection and is often to be seen whiling away the hours in a hammock, Mark has borrowed a water pipe from a local taxi driver and is often sighted poking out from a cloud of honey flavoured smoke. Please go out and buy a copy of Land Rover Monthly. It comes out on the 4th of every month, has some great pictures and follows our progress on a monthly basis. Keep logging on to check our regular updates posted on the home page and, if you have not already been there, check out the rest of the site. A recent addition is 'Victoria's Story' some pictures of Victoria, a girl cared for by Demelza House with accompanying text by her father. Oh and remember that we have an online donation facility on the site. Simply scroll down the home page and click on the bankcard symbols!

Again, thanks for all your support and interest. Do keep in touch and stay abreast of our progress as we head further into the unknown.

We found a friendly Land Rover mechanic who replaced the broken mirror and gave the vehicles a good check over

Land Rovers plodding loyaly onwards through difficult terrain



The Pyramids at Giza, the only of the seven ancient wonders of the world surviving today

Jonathan Besley - Project Leader

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