Sphinx and Giza Pyramid in Cairo

Downtown Cairo

Colouring in with children in Cairo

Getting into the Sudan proved to be our biggest complication so far. We spent over two weeks in Cairo before eventually being issued with the necessary visas. The Sudan is an extremely sensitive country and is wary of allowing western travellers in. The fact that we were regarded as an NGO (Non Government Organization) served to further complicate the issue. We finally got through the incredible bureaucratic inefficiency by getting a Rotary Club contact in Khartoum to approach the Ministry of Tourism independently. We were, in fact, finally issued with an official invitation from the Sudanese government. Since this we have met numerous people who have simply been refused entry and so feel extremely privileged to have been allowed passage through this enigmatic country. Without passing through the Sudan, the largest country in Africa, it is not possible to complete a true trans African expedition. Other potential routes such as the traditional one starting in Morocco are currently impossible due to the political climate in central Africa. If we had been forced to take a ship around the Red Sea to Mombassa in Kenya we would all have felt as though we had fallen short of our goal.

Aswan by Night

Felucas on the Nile at Sunset

Once we had finalised all the necessary paperwork we set off on the two-day drive south to Aswan, the only feasible departure point from Egypt to the Sudan. The first days driving in almost a month took us along the Red Sea coast as far as Port Safaga. On day two we had to get a military convoy through potential bandit country to Aswan. Aswan is a lovely city built up around the banks of the Nile. Feluccas sail at sunset and the aromatic streets bustle with activity. Much to our disappointment, however, we were in for another wait. In order to get the Land Rovers shipped down the recently formed Lake Nassar to Wadi Halfa, the only official point of entry into the Sudan from Egypt, we had to share a large barge with a cargo of cement and iron wool. The departure of the barge depended entirely on the delivery of this cargo so once more we were forced to wait. It turned out that we had to wait for almost two weeks.

Egyptian boy with newspaper

Group Picture with fellow overland travellers

Armed with $2000 (our visa card cannot be used until we arrive in Kenya) Rory, Charlie, Helen and Rachel took the two vehicles on the three-day boat journey to Sudan. Rory and Rachel and Charlie and Helen had to travel as man and wife; it is not considered acceptable for mixed sexes to be travelling together out of wedlock. Mark and I, meanwhile, stayed in Aswan for one further day and then took the sixteen-hour passenger ferry. The journey was a fascinating one. We found a patch of deck where we lay out our sleeping bags amongst a crowd of Arabs surrounded with what seemed like all their worldly possessions. At the appropriate times the captain engaged the loud speaker and, as he boomed out the traditional call to prayer, we watched with interest as everyone lined up to face Mecca and go through the motions of Muslim prayer. Arriving in Wadi Halfa we were immediately struck by the efficiency and friendliness of the immigration process. Whereas it took us eight hours to enter Egypt, the Sudanese officials detained us for just twenty minutes. Wadi Halfa is a barren and isolated outpost. It exists purely because of the ferry, which arrives every Tuesday morning. There is a basic hotel without running water, a few people eager to change American Dollars for Sudanese Dina and handful of basic stores. The next day we obtained the police permits necessary to travel in the country and found a guide to take us through the maze of sandy tracks to the highway leading south.

Vehicles on the barge for Sudan

Our room in Wadi Halfa Hotel

This so-called highway is in fact no more than a heavily corrugated and potholed track through the desert. For three days we rose with the sun and made slow progress through the desolate landscape. The Land Rovers plodded loyally onwards across the tracks, which cut deep into the soft sand. Occasionally we arrived at isolated villages whose buildings, made from Nile mud and dessert sand, blended into the surrounding landscape. The tracks frequently petered out into various faint tyre marks heading off in various directions. Having been unable to obtain detailed maps of the Sudan and having found no guidebooks, we depended heavily on our Global Positioning Systems donated by H.S.Elmac and were forced to stop at regular intervals to ask camel herders which way to head for Khartoum. After three days of hard driving and a diet consisting of pasta, tuna and bread we arrived in Khartoum and found a patch to camp in the gardens of the Sailing Club whose club house is the now dilapidated ship used by General Kitchener to conquer Sudan over one hundred years ago.

Land Rover crossing the desert in northern Sudan

Ferry across the Nile

The Sudan is a country that few westerners visit and, largely because of its civil war and association with terrorism, is considered to be unsafe. We have been here for almost a week now and have been both surprised and delighted by its charm. The Sudanese people are the friendliest we have come across so far. During our time here we have been greeted with smiles, waves and hospitality. Whereas we found Egypt a great strain with locals constantly trying to sell us things and demanding 'Baksheesh' (gifts of money), the Sudanese are not used to tourists and approach us with genuine interest and a wish to ensure we are enjoying our time in their country. We have been befriended by a man named Farthi who has been eager to feed us his home brewed liquor (the punishment for Muslims caught consuming alcohol in Sudan is forty lashes!) He has been keen to help with our onward journey and has made the job of obtaining our Kenyan visas and permits for onwards travel a much easier one. He is in the tourism business and is optimistic about the future of Sudan. He is working with the government to increase tourism in the country and suggests that the introduction of tourist police and an improved infrastructure is the way ahead.

Land Rover parked at camp site.

We have used our time here in Khartoum constructively. As well as obtaining various documents necessary for the journey ahead we have stocked up on supplies and maintained the vehicles. We have so far driven about 12,000 KM and estimate that we have completed half our total mileage. We had to have the clutch system on one of the Land Rovers replaced as well as having certain electrical problems dealt with and the suspension looked at. The desert driving took its toll on the vehicles and the corrugations loosened many of the nuts and bolts. They are now back in prime condition and we are optimistic that they will last the rest of the journey without any trouble. From central Kenya to Cape Town the roads are supposedly quite reasonable. The road from Gonder to Gaderef in Ethiopia, however, is reportedly very poor. We have heard stories of travellers crossing in wet weather who have taken hours to progress just a few miles through the mud. If the sun has dried the road out then it is likely to be deeply rutted. We have a good winch and ample recovery equipment though, so feel optimistic about this and look forward to the challenge.

Because of the time spent submerged in 'red tape' in Egypt we are in a hurry to reach Kisumu in Kenya and start work at the Pillar of Faith Home for Needy Children. We hope to pass through southern Sudan, Ethiopia and northern Kenya as quickly as we can, stopping briefly in Nairobi to stock up on supplies. Encountering no major problems we hope to arrive in mid November. We have been in transit for three months now and are all looking forward to spending a month in one place. It will be good not only to get to know the children but also to get involved with a community and feel that we have truly got to know a region. We will be working as carers for the children, helping with their education and using the Land Rovers to maintain their facilities and distribute goods. Our long-term aim, as with the other projects in Uganda and South Africa, is to get a feel for the nature of the project and assess how they will most benefit from the long-term support we are offering. Some initial ideas are the introduction of a 'Gap Year' programme, sponsorship scheme, where individuals can sponsor a child through their education and receive regular photographs and progress reports and, of course, financial aid. We expect to develop far more comprehensive aims during our time at the three projects.

We continue to maintain close links with our sponsors and supporters. Our patrons, HRH Prince Michael of Kent, KCVO and Commander R. H. Bawtree, OBE take great interest in our progress and The Archbishop of Canterbury, Dr George Carey continues to offer us his support. We have been in touch with him and have asked if he can arrange for us to meet with Archbishop Desmond Tutu once we arrive in South Africa. This would not only be a fascinating opportunity for us but would make for interesting video footage on our documentary. Later this afternoon we have a meeting with the Minister of Tourism for Sudan, this will also be filmed. Later in the trip we are due to film meetings with the President of Uganda and the King of Swaziland. Helen has obtained some superb footage already and is looking forward to filming our time at the children's projects (the intended focal point of the documentary). She had a nasty experience in Aswan when interviewing Mark near the High Dam. The dam is a sensitive military zone and we were spotted by some soldiers. They were alarmed but eventually realised that we were not a threat to national security! Money continues to arrive in our charity account. Amy Perrot from Kent completed her sponsored swim, which raised £1000 pounds and is now undertaking a sponsored parachute jump on behalf of Kent2CapeTown. Mrs Judson and Mrs Besley are organizing a jumble sale and various schools throughout England are undertaking fund raising events. The online donation facility on the website has gathered a respectable sum of money and we continue to receive the occasional donation from individuals.

Jonathan Besley - Project Leader

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